Basically, we just packed a picnic everyday and put our sneakers on, and off we were. The first day we went up a mountain to go and see a waterfall. It was really amazing! The second day we couldn't go for a hike, as we had to go and get Olivia's cousin, Alex. He was really cool, and when it comes to eating he is so funny!

Anyway, so the third day we were sitting round, being bored, so we decided we would walk up a mountain and see what we find on the other side. That's exactly what we did, and when we came to the other side, we found another beach called Whites Beach. We were really exited and we took heaps of photos. The fourth day we just felt like going rock climbing so we went up a really rocky mountain. It was so scary and really high! We also went to another beach, the way we got there was we kept climbing over heaps of rocks and when we got on the other side there was a beach. We had so much fun.

Then, we had a disaster happen! Olivia and I were sitting at home reading and playing board games, until we decided we just want to go for a walk around the block or down to the beach. We got our wet suits on, got our boogie boards, and off we were to the beach. When we got down to the beach, the water looked so nice, and felt nice, that we decided we would go and ride some waves. We weren't in very far, and there was a really big wave, we stayed where we were as we thought the wave would be down by the time it reached us. It got closer and closer and bigger and bigger. We started to run, but couldn't because, the current was strong. Olivia wanted to ride the wave, but she thought it would be too big and rough, so she decided she was going to jump over it, as she jumped over it, she flipped back and got pulled under the wave. At that time i was already pulled under the wave. I was going to ride it too, I was standing there ready to ride the wave, it got closer so I Jumped up onto my boogie board, until suddenly I wasn't watching and got pulled under the wave. At that moment when you're under a wave, you think so much that you forget to breathe. I think Olivia and I both got a really big fright, because when she came out we cried and laughed at the same time! It was probably the most scariest time of my life!The next day we were not aloud at the beach, because we didn't tell Olivia's grandma that we were going for a swim.

I hope you are all having a great holiday. Please let me know what you are getting up to.

A second left click should enlarge image further.

There is a possibility that the very interesting Fujiwhara effect might occur within the next few days.  In the image above I have placed a red dot upon the tropical disturbance that is tormenting Puerto Rico and Eastern Hispaniola and a light blue dot upon an extratropical low that is off the Eastern Seaboard and probably kicking up some big waves.  If the tropical system shoots north as the models are predicting, the two could interact in the Fujiwhara effect.  Here is a well-written link about that phenomenon.

http://weather.about.com/od/hurricaneformation/a/Fujiwhara.htm

The extratropical system might even back up a bit in response to a rotation around a common axis with the tropical system.  Go to this link now if you would like to see a rendition of what might happen:  (There are four helpful buttons - reverse, stop. forward, and single step).

http://www.atmos.washington.edu/~ovens/loops/wxloop.cgi?eta_pcpn_slp_thkn+///6

SPECIAL NOTE:  THE LINK IMMEDIATELY ABOVE IS VERY TIME SENSITIVE.  IT MAY NOT SHOW WHAT I'VE DISCUSSED IN THIS BLOG UNLESS YOU VIEW IT ON THE DAY THIS WAS POSTED.   AFTERWARDS THE FORECAST MIGHT CHANGE.  IF THE FUJIWHARA EFFECT ACTUALLY COMES TO FRUITION WE WILL BE ABLE TO SEE IT VIA LOOPS THAT ACCELERATE TIME.

Of course, I did not come up with this notion on my own.  My tip came from the WeatherUnderground blog posted by Dr. Jeff Masters at 10:43 AM EDT today (September 23, 2008).  He also mentioned it yesterday.

Natural processes can be lethal and cause heartbreak but they can also be breathtakingly beautiful.  If the Fujiwhara effect happens to occur, perhaps we will have the opportunity to watch two spiraling systems dance together for a while, just as spiraling galaxies can do as they get close to each other.  Let's hope the prediction is "right on" and that we can focus upon an event that is NOT creating havoc as did Ike.  Enjoy!

Image by hira3 via Flickr

I can't tell if this is a real photo or just a manufactured image to get our attention about the terrible danger of tsunamis for coastal areas of the Pacific Ocean:

It's part of a smashing collection of images here!

It kind of stops me in my tracks to think I used to surf waves like that, fearlessly.  Things change when you have kids.  Yet, I imagine in a few years Wyatt will be out there with me.  I can't wait! 

Una historia de surf en forma de documental sobre un selecto grupo de surfers que lo son durante los temporales y maretones que asolan la costa norte de España durante el invierno. Documental que será estrenado este otoño durante el III Surfilm Festival Ciudad de Santander. (España) Hasta entonces disfruta del trailer.

Well maybe they really went out because they wanted to have fun.

Promoção surpreendente

Está de malas prontas para o paraíso tahitiano o bigrider e local de Itacoatiara, Niterói, RJ, Dudu Pedra (foto acima - divulgação). Após passagem pelas gélidas águas chilenas, durante a etapa de Iquique, Dudu aproveita o embalo e se junta ao videomaker Gustavo Camarão, para juntos fazerem algumas boas imagens para o próximo vídeo da Que!LifeStyle.

'Não conheço o Tahiti ainda e tenho o sonho de surfar Teahupoo grande, graças a Deus e aos meus patrocinadores agora poderei me testar nessa onda incrível!', relata o Pedra, que está indo bancado pela OZ CONNECTION, TRIPLER, QUE!LIFESTYLE.

Em breve mais novidades destas trip, que ainda contará com a participação do bicampeão brasileiro José Otávio.

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Links Patrocinados
Cadastre-se no Mercado Livre e procure BODYBOARDS pelo menor preço!

Este ano começou mais cedo a chegarem as grandes ondulações de sul, e com elas o espetáculo de quem encara o desafio de despencar nas ladeiras.

Abaixo segue o vídeo da última grande ressaca ocorrida no Rio de Janeiro, repassado pelo "bodyboard business man" Flávio Brito, editor do Abbctour.net. Para quem tem coragem e fôlego, boas ondas!

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Links Patrocinados
Cadastre-se no Mercado Livre e procure BODYBOARDS pelo menor preço!

So I'm out looking for new bedding the other day, and I went to all the big retailers, you know the usual three boring department stores that have the same old stuff that no one really likes, but basically there is no where else to go. So what am i to do?I start searching the internet for something cool and unique! I'm a guy who loves the beach and the ocean, even though i Live NO WHERE near it! So i stumble upon this website that sells Tropical and Beach themed comforters and sheets! Totally cool stuff, i couldn't believe it!I went ahead and bought the DM301, cruisin' hawaii design because it looked the best to me, and i like the old woody car vibe it had. Then i see they had Surfboard Rugs and lots more surfing themed home decor, now my place is totally radical and I too dream of hawaii everyday!

Surfing © Eva Morris

Would you like to know more about surfing, where to find the best breaks, and when to travel where? Read on!

First, let me explain the different types of breaks.

Beach breaks are waves that break either on an offshore sandbank or directly on to the beach.

Good Beach Breaks

Puerto Escondido, Mexico

Hossegor, France

Duranbah, Australia

Reef breaks are waves that are steep, hollow, and top to bottom (the lip of the wave breaks directly into the base of the wave). The reefs can be rocky, volcano or coral, but it always breaks at the same point. The water is deeper around the reef and no waves break there, so surfers are able to paddle around the breakline easily.

Good Reef Breaks

Pipeline, North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii

Cloudbreak, Fiji

Uluwatu, Bali

G-land, Java

Point breaks have the longest rides, and the take off can be difficult.

Good Point Breaks

Kirra, Australia

J-Bay, South Africa

Rincon, California

If the wave breaks along its whole lenght, it's called a "close out".

Waves that break on islands have more power, are faster. Demanding waves will require concentration, skill, and commitment.

Tube Riding

You get into a tube by:

1. Slow down to let the breaking wave and the tube catch up with you. This is called "stall."

2. You can take off right on the inside and you will actually surf into the tube from behind it. This is called "backdoor."

Avoid wipeouts!

Decide beforehand whether you are going to take the wave or not. You can't think something like "well, I start paddling and see how it goes", you must give it all you got to actually catch the wave.

Surfing Big Waves

< 2 feet - Not real waves, but it might be better than just sitting on the beach.

< 4 feet - Fun small waves. Ideal for beginners and for practicing new moves.

5 feet - Less serious than fun. Some adrenaline.

6 feet - Bring a bigger board and don't underestimate these waves. Lots of adrenaline.

6-8 feet - Watch out for larger sets, otherwise same as 6 feet waves.

8 feet - Intensive big waves.

8-10 feet - Full of adrenaline. If you manage 6 feet waves, give it a try. Put your fear aside, paddle out, and try to make it safely back to the beach.

10 feet - Don't get caught by larger sets. You can't paddle out if the waves are higher than 10 feet. The ultimate is clean conditions, well co-ordinated sets, clearly defined lineups, and a smooth water surface.  

10 feet > - Waves higher than 10 feet can be life threatening.

18 feet > - Waves higher than 18 feet are only for a really extreme group of surfers.

Best Known Big Wave Spots

Waimea Bay, Jaws, Hawaii

Todos Santos, Mexico

Mavericks, California

Margret River, Australia

Waves Around the World

Europe: France, Spain, and Portugal have surf all year, and is best at the end of summer. In winter it's usually cold.

Hawaii: November to April is best with medium to monster-sized waves.

Bali: May to August is dry season on the west coast (Uluwatu) and December to March is monsoon season (Nusa Dua).

Australia: East coast (Queensland and North South Wales) is best during winter. The south and west coast are best during summer.

South Pacific: Fiji and Tahiti are best May to August.

Mexico: North Baja is best in winter, South Baja and mainland are best during summer.

Ecuador: Surf all year. Best during the European winter, from November to January.  

Costa Rica: Good surf all year round. In winter it's dry season on the Caribbean side and in summer it's wet season on the Pacific side.

California: Good surf all year round. In winter big waves, but very cold.

Atlantic Coast - Europe

Best time is late summer to autumn, in winter cold water.

Just above Bourdeaux to St Jean de Luz:  

Hossegor/Seignosse has the most powerful beach breaks. The main surf spot is Estagnots belonging to the village Seignosse. Biarritz is the surfing capital of Europe and it's often good surf by the stone pier at Plage des Cavalier. La Grand Plage isn't that good because of water pollution.

San Sebastian towards Bilbao:

Mundacca is the best and longest left wave in Europe. The spot is located at Amorebieta, turn off in direction of Guernica.

Portugal has super cold water, even in summer. Best time from September. The surf spots are concentrated around the areas of Ericeira and Peniche peninsula.

The Canaries

The best surf spots on Lanzarote are Famara and La Santa on the west coast. Surfers travelling to Fuerteventura hang out at Corralejo.

USA

West coast has surf all year, and winter is the best time. California is one of the best surfing regions in the world.

Windansea - In La Jolla, part of San Diego. Stony bottom. Hollow left and right.

Blacks - Lies at the foot of the steep coast line between San Diego and Encinitas. Steep hollow wave, tubes.

Trestles - Past San Ofre. One of the most famous spots, two waves usually.

New Port - Many stone piers, crowded.

Huntington Beach - "Surf city", often crowded.

Rincon -Most well known point break in California. North from Rincon colder water, larger waves and smaller crowds.

Morro Bay, Monterey, Santa Cruz.

Steamer Lane - At the foot of the cliff. Infamous because of sharks.

Maverick's - Not far from San Francisco. Named after someone's dog (I think it might have been Jeff Clark). Extremely dangerous and powerful big-wave reef break.

Hawaii

Hawaii is a surfing paradise all year. The main surf islands are Oahu, Maui, Kauou and Hawai. The North Shore is about 45 minutes from the airport. Pipeline is best November to March, main season December. Come in January to avoid most of the crowds. Pipeline is directly opposite Sunset Beach school.

Ala Moana Bowl - Big left tube.

Lainakea - Right reef break, many hollow sections.

Tocko's and Churi's - Quick hollow left. One of the easiest waves on the North Shore, 2-8 feet.

Waimea Bay - Experts only.

Pipe - Ultimate left hand tube.

Backdoor - Right hander on the same wave as Pipe.

Sunset Beach - Right, 800 m out,  4-20 feet.

Maui is known for its windsurfing, especially at Hookipa Beach.

Honolua Bay - (north) best waves long right hand

Peahi (Jaws) - Tow in surfing, 30+ feet.

Australia

The focus is on the east coast.

Winter (June-October) best in Southern Australia, Western and the East coast. Cold but powerful waves.

Summer (November-February). Often smaller waves, and onshore winds. Feb-April has cyclone swell.

Sydney to Brisbane:

Kirra - 100 m north from Greenmount, best and longest right hand tube, sand break.

Burleigh Heads - Right hand point break. Long clean tubes on a sandy bottom.

Surfers Paradise - A party town, not a surfing paradise.

Noosa Heads - Under the right conditions, this can be on the best waves in Australia.

Surfing Trip Tip: Fly to Australia after the end of January, buy or hire a car in Sydney, and drive up the coast.

Victoria, South Australia: Best March to October (autumn and winter). Many white and tiger sharks, colder waters.

Torquay - Surfing Mecca.

Bells Beach - Long big waves.

North South Wales has good surfing all year. The best spots in Sydney are Manly, and Bondi Beach. Further north, there are two good reef breaks called Freshwater and Avalon.

The Australian Pipeline is 15 south of the town Nowra. Take the turn off to Jerris Bay, follow to Wreck Bay.  Called "Summer Cloud Bay". Walk 20 minutes through the bush until you're at Pipeline.

The weather and water gets warmer north of Sydney.

Crescent Head - Long right hand point break.

Byron Bay - Popular among longboarders.

Queensland is best October to April.

Duranbah - One of the best beach breaks.

South Pacific (April to October)

Fiji:

Cloudbreak is one of the best lefts in the world, it's a fast hollow beach break that lies in the middle of the ocean on a coral reef, 15-30 minutes by boat.

Teahupo'o get their swells from the Antarctic storms from south west.

Haapiti is a left hand reef break. Bluest, cleanest barrels in the world, great, but expensive.

Indonesia:  

Bali (2-12 feet waves)

Uluwatu - South, near the temple with the same name.

Padang Padang and Bingin - Fast hollow, break in shallow water over coral reefs.

On the south east tip of Java is Garajigang (G-Land), a left point reef break. Take a boat from Jimbaran Bay to Plenkung. A plus for the warm water.

Mexico

Surfing is possible at Baja California, Mainland, and Veracruz (Gulf of Mexico). During the summer, it's swell from tropical cyclones coming from the south. Surf at the southern tip of Baja or mainland.

In the winter, the best surfing is at the northern tip of Baja.

Todos Santos - Big wave.

Puerto Escondido - The Mexican Pipeline.

Playa Zicatela - Beach break.

Cabo San Lucas - Popular party town.

Good point breaks are "Shipwrecks", Cabo Wabo, Squid Roe, and Killers (only reachable by boat, 20+ feet).

Ecuador

Casa Blanca in the province Esmeraldas has good surf. In Manabí, Río Chico and San Matero are the best locations. Montanita in Guayas is seen as the surfing capital of Ecuador, Montanita is a right hand barrel that is close to great beach breaks.

In the morning, the winds are light or non-existent and the rest of the day has tropical glassy conditions.

The beautiful Galapagos islands have some spots for experienced surfers. Try El Tongo, Loberia, El Canon and Carola. Many of them are only a short taxi ride from the main town.

Costa Rica

Good surfing all year

Jaco - 2 hours from San Jose on the Central Pacific coast.

Tamarindo - 5 hours north peninsula de Nicoya.

The dry season is from December-April, and the rainy season from May to November.

The Pacific coast has good point breaks and long sandy beaches.  

Further south in the direction of Panama is one of the longest waves, Dominical.

South Africa

Number one surf spot in South Africa is Jeffrey's Bay (J-Bay) about 100 km south of Port Elizabeth.

Réunion

Good surf June to September. The west side has 10-12 spots, mostly reef breaks.

The Perfect Surf Conditions

Morning sessions are often the best. The perfect conditions is just before the wind turns around, when it's stillness with no wind at all - "glassy".

Tides

Low tide and high tide go in a 6 hourly rhythm. The time jump is 1 hour each day. King tides means that it's an extreme difference between high and low tide. Before surfing, you must always know if the tide is going out or coming in.

Surfing Terms

I also found a few great sites with surfing terms, Surfing terms glossary, Surfing Terms, Surfing San Diego Surf Terms, and a special surf lingo lexicon called Riptionary.

TUE...S WIND 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 4 TO 6 FT. W SWELL 25 TO
28 FT AT 16 SECONDS. CHANCE OF SHOWERS.

WED...N WIND 5 TO 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT OR LESS. W SWELL
19 FT....DIMINISHING TO 15 FT IN THE LATE AFTERNOON. SLIGHT CHANCE OF SHOWERS.

Click on "More" for the Monday afternoon buoy map. Pretty.

But stay off the jetties, okay? Please.
Three surfers OK after being swept off north jetty
Karen Wilkinson / The Times-Standard
12/03/2007 12:05:05 PM PST

SAMOA -- Three surfers were swept off the north jetty and into rough waters around 10:30 a.m. today, but were quickly rescued, said Humboldt County Sheriff's Deputy Robert Hamilton. The male surfers, who were not identified, had some cuts, but were otherwise OK, Hamilton said.

One was in the water less than a minute, while the other two -- who were taking cover by some rocks -- were swept to the ocean side of the breaker, Hamilton said.
”They're fine, they just left,” Hamilton said minutes after the surfers drove away from the Samoa jetty.

The National Weather Service issued high surf and high wind warnings, noting that the high surf warning will remain in effect until 3 a.m. Wednesday. The high wind warning will stay in effect until 9 p.m. today. The large, dangerous waves will generate beach breakers of nearly 25 feet, and will build to 30 to 35 feet on Tuesday, as the swell peaks, the National Weather Service's Web site says.

Winds from the south and southeast of 30 to 50 mph are expected, with potential wind gusts of 60 mph near coastal bluffs and through interior mountain passes.
Signs by the jetty warn of hazardous surf conditions, and point out that large waves can hit and to stay away from the jetty and ocean.