I am sitting in the fashionable Azabu Juban area of Tokyo with a little lady, who speaks to me through an interpreter. Her eyes are vacant, perhaps searching for a sense of closure.

Her son, Kota Shinozaki, a 21-year-old Keio University student, from Saitama in Japan, arrived at the Delhi International Airport from Tokyo on September 3, 2006, at 2 am. On the same day, he purchased a package tour from a travel agent in New Delhi, which would take him to Jaipur and Agra by car, and eventually to Varanasi, Kolkata and, finally, back to Delhi by train. He left Delhi the same day for Jaipur, and reached Agra on September 5 from Jaipur with a driver named Raju.

The same afternoon, he checked into the Chanakya Hotel in Agra. He went to see the Taj Mahal with the driver and one Lalta Prasad Gautam, a Japanese-speaking guide introduced to him by the driver. The trio came back to the hotel around 5 pm. The next morning, when the driver came to the hotel to pick up Kota, there was no sign of him. His bed had not been slept in, and his belongings had disappeared. According to the hotel records, he had checked out. The driver did not report Kota's disappearance to the police or the Japanese embassy.

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En un país como India donde convive el lujo y la miseria siempre hay algún buscavidas con el objetivo de sacarle unos duros a los viajeros con pequeños timos.

Estos timos no son exclusivos de India, de hecho son habituales en el sudeste asiático y en otras zonas del mundo (ya me ha tocado lidiar con alguno de estos, desde versiones bastante elaboradas, hasta otras burdas y casi de guasa), pero no está de más recordarlos para que el timado sea otro, o para reirte cuando caigas.

1. Fingir no saber el camino al hotel

Esta estafa les ocurre en ocasiones a los viajeros que llegan al aeropuerto de Delhi y cogen un taxi prepagado hacia su hotel.

Durante el viaje, el conductor dice que no sabe donde está su hotel (o que está lleno, o que no existe) y le oferta o ir a otro hotel, o ir a una agencia de viajes para contratar otro.

Muchos viajeros caen en esta estafa, ya que están cansados del vuelo y abrumados por el choque de la India por primera vez.

Insiste en ir al hotel. Di que tienes confirmada la reserva (tengas o no reserva) y que ya lo discutirás en recepción.

Además los hoteles que recurren a estas 'artes' no suelen ser los mejores ni los que tienen una mejor relación calidad-precio. En caso de duda nunca elijas el que te proponen, elige cualquier otro.

Además, en Delhi no le des el vale prepago del taxi al conductor hasta que no te lleve. El conductor necesita este bono con el fin de cobrar el taxi de la oficina de taxis.

2. Decir que el lugar que estás buscando se ha movido o ha cerrado

Se trata de un timo que puedes experimentar en toda la India, pero la mayoría de las veces en torno a los destinos turísticos en las principales ciudades.

En Delhi, a los viajeros en busca en la oficina de reservas de la nueva estación de tren de Delhi para de los turistas extranjeros, a menudo se les dice que hoy está cerrado o que ha cambiado de dirección. Y te invitan a ir a una agencia de viajes para hacer la reserva.

Otras variantes de esta estafa ocurren cuando se intentan visitar tiendas y atracciones turísticas que aparentemente están "cerradas".

En cada caso, se hace una oferta de visita alternativa y, en ocasiones, incluso "mejor".

Debes hacer caso omiso de estas personas y continuar a tu rollo. Ten en cuenta que tu debes decidir donde vas. No te dejes liar.

3. La importación de piedras preciosas libres de impuestos

Esta estafa está muy extendida en Jaipur y Agra, donde muchas personas van a comprar las piedras preciosas.

Se trata de turistas que buscan distribuidores de joyería, y a los que se convence de comprar algunas piedras preciosas, cuya importación te aseguran que está libre de impuestos, y luego la recompra por uno de los socios del distribuidor en tu país de origen por mucho más dinero de lo que originalmente pagaste.

Por supuesto, los detalles acerca del socio en tu pais son ficticios y te la han pegado con un montón de piedras sin valor.

Evitar que nadie se acerca a ti con una oferta como ésta o nada parecido.

A veces no se te solicitará pagar las gemas, pero en su lugar has de proporcionar una "garantía financiera" con tu número de tarjeta de crédito y firma.

4. Trucar el taxímetro

Muchos taxistas y conductores de rickshaw auto son honestos, pero algunos taxímetros se han modificado para correr más rápido a fin de cobrarte una tarifa superior.

Merece la pena ver el taxímetro para comprobar que está marcando a un ritmo coherente, y no demasiado rápido, y en caso de duda bajarte y coger otro taxi.

Otra variación de este fraude es el taxista diciendo que el contador está roto y, a continuación, te ofrece un precio inflado a tu destino.

5. Ofrecer una reducción de tarifa de taxis al visitar comercios

Si bien esta no es una estafa como tal, puede ser bastante molesta.

Los conductores de taxis suelen ofrecer una tarifa reducida si los usuarios están de acuerdo en detenerse en unas pocas y caras tiendas de artesanía en el camino, a fin de que puedan obtener comisiones.

No son necesarias las compras, basta con mirar. El problema se produce cuando el número de tiendas a ser visitadas aumenta de "unos pocos" a por lo menos a 5 o 6, por lo que el conductor pueda maximizar sus comisiones.

Los comerciales no dejan que los clientes potenciales se vayan fácilmente, por lo que este ejercicio puede acabar durando horas.

Si deseas llegar a destino con prontitud o no quieres ser atrapados en lo que se sentirás como interminable, es mejor pagar la totalidad del taxi y dejarnos de ofertas golosas.

En cualquier caso viaja con los ojos y los oídos bien abiertos, pero relajado. Si vas a gastar tu tiempo entre la sospecha y la paranoia habrás perdido una preciosa oportunidad de viaje.

Way to fitness

(the Fitness centre reception at kaya kalp)

It wasn't the ultra luxurious look which drew my attention to this spa - Kaya Kalp at ITC Mughal at Agra.

The traditional elements of Mughal landscaping and architecture caught my attention.

The heady mix of Ayurveda and Mughal legacies held me mesmerized.

On one side there are different tones of white in entire design; on the other Pomegranate (liet motif) trail runs dramatically across-along the white floor as an inlay red engineered stone.

The architecture of the spa is also inspired by the use of space in Mughal architecture as specifically in ‘Fatehpur Sikri'.

The 99000 square feet spa is only a few months old (launched May 2008) and has already been rated by Tatler's as ‘world's best city spa'.

Relaxation area

Corridor

the Courtyard

Reception at Kaya Kalp

Ayurveda room

Serenity pool

Kaya kalp - The Royal spa

Talking to Business Standard on this occasion, President Kushagr Ansal said Ansal Town would be spread over 130 acres, located on the proposed 100-metre expressway passing close to the Taj Mahal and was easily accessible from all major state highways.

According to Ansal, the project will have 1,250 housing units in all, costing Rs 14–25 lakh, with plot sizes varying between 150 and 300 metres. And opposed to the established concept of “designer townships”, there is an option for purchasing independent plots at Rs 8-14 lakh where a house could be constructed according to the customised requirement of the buyer instead of going for a “pre-fab” house design.

Ansal said Ansal town had been designed keeping the premium segment of the market in mind, providing clubs, shopping malls, schools, etc within the fully secure confines of the township.

He said the project was expected to be formally launched on July 23 and the company expected to complete the construction of the Ansal Town by the end of 2008.

He said the company was on a major expansion spree with total of 1,200 acres of township projects and 1 million sq ft of condominium projects in the next 3-4 years. Besides Agra, he said, AHCL was also planning a 100 crore condominium project in Mumbai, 200 acre weekend houses project in Thane, 2.5 million sq. ft. IT/Residential project in Bangalore.

He said AHCL was widening its horizons by entering into retail sector. It had just completed a 200,000 sq. ft. branded factory outlet mall “Ansal Plaza” in Vaishali. It was also going to launch more retail malls in Lucknow and Karnal and the total investment in all the projects started by AHCL was worth Rs. 3500 crores.

Even on the international grounds, AHCL had been extremely successful, by creating Perth Paradise - an 800 acres of residential township in Srilanka, evolving as a multinational conglomerate over the past thirty years of existence in the real estate business, he said.

Menikmati eksotisme Hindustan lewat rute ‘segitiga' Agra-Delhi-Jaipur. Bonusnya ke kaki Himalaya di ketinggian 2.188 m dpl buat mendinginkan temperatur tubuh.

Chandu ke chcha ne chandu ke chachi ko chandi chandni chowk me! Ah, kalimat sepanjang itu terdengar begitu romantis di telinga. Gara-gara dibisikkan seorang pria tampan bernama Hritik Roshan!

Sayangnya, ini bukan sungguhan melainkan bagian dari adegan film Khabbie Khushi Kabhi Gham. Kalimatnya sendiri, peruntukannya mirip joke kita mencandai mereka yang sukar melafalkan huruf ‘r': "Ular melingkar di atas pagar".

Kalimat ruwet yang disebutkan Hritik Roshan tadi artinya kurang-lebih ‘Bibi pergi ke pasar, lihat sana-sini lalu jalan-jalan ke bundaran Sinar Bulan (Chandni Chowk)'. Pengucapannya dalam bahasa Hindi mesti secepat kilat dan potensial bikin lidah melintir.

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PUTRI DI ATAS RICKSHAW

Tapi gara-gara kata ‘Chandni Chowk' (dari bahasa Hindi, chandr artinya bulan dan chowk adalah roundabout) dari Hritik Roshan, saya tergelitik bertandang ke sini.
Menaiki rickshaw yang ditarik pemberi jasa dengan begitu gaya. Bak putri raja di film bersetting masa lalu!

Lewat kawasan bisnis komersial yang sibuk di Old Delhi --bagian kota lama, dulunya kondang disebut Shahjahanabad alias Kota Shah Jahan. Tempat yang menjadi ibukota kerajaan Mughal setelah dipindahkan dari Agra.

Mulai perlengkapan dapur, kurta (semacam kemeja lengan panjang buat kaum perempuan) dan kain sari, sampai barang-barang emas dan perak dipasarkan di sini. Juga aneka bumbu khas India dalam partai besar, plus pengepakan sekaligus pengirimannya ke seluruh India bahkan luar negeri.

Tak jauh dari roundabout Sinar Bulan, terdapat Jama Mosque. Mesjid terbesar di India. Juga Lahore Gate, salah satu pintu masuk ke benteng Red Fort. Serta gereja tua Saint James (1836) yang puncak kubahnya dipasangi salib Yunani.

Gereja berwarna dominan broken white dan kuning itu dibangun Kolonel James Skinner (1778-1841). Seorang putra berdarah Skotlandia dan Rajput yang ditolak masuk ketentaraan Inggris karena darahnya tidak murni.

Akhirnya ia membuat divisi kavaleri sendiri bernama Skinner's Horse dan tentaranya dijuluki ‘Yellow Boys'. Skinner wafat di Hansi, 137 km sebelah barat Delhi serta dimakamkan di bawah altar dalam gereja. Gelar kehormatannya, ‘Order of the Bath'.

Dari Old Delhi, perjalanan saya berlanjut ke Rashtrapati Bhavan. Daerah di cerukan Bukit Raisina yang menjadi tempat tinggal official kepala pemerintahan India.

Saya tidak yakin antara beruntung atau para penjaga istana sedang beristirahat, yang jelas saya bisa melenggang mendekati The Iron Gates dan memotret Jaipur Column dari balik gerbang tanpa terhalang siapapun!

Jaipur Column -yang menjadi lambang negara-- merupakan pilar bergaya Victoria setinggi 55 m dengan copula berbentuk bintang dari tembaga.

Keseluruhan gedung termasuk pagarnya tadi didesain oleh Edwin Landseer Lutyens. Sentuhan karyanya yang punya kemiripan dengan The Iron Gates juga bisa dinikmati di Chiswick, England.

(c) ukirsari

CINTA TRAGIS

Berbincang soal arsitektur, India tergolong kaya. Termasuk di ‘kawasan segitiga' Delhi-Agra-Jaipur, tempat pelancongan saya kali ini.

Banyak contoh-contoh arsitektur Mughal (abad ke-16 sampai akhir ke-18) serta British Raj --perpaduan gaya Victoria (Inggris) dengan elemen-elemen dekoratif India, marak di abad ke-19 sampai awal abad ke-20- yang demikian menawan hati.

Selain Rashtrapati Bhavan, masih ada sederet bangunan berciri kolonial di New Delhi. Seperti India Gate, yang desainnya mirip Arc de Triomphe di Paris, Prancis.

Atau katedral Church of Redemption karya Henry Alexander Medd dengan inspirasi bentuk gereja Neo Klasik di Venezia (Italia). Serta Connaught Place atau CP, pusat perbelanjaan yang buka sejak 1931.

CP dibuat oleh arsitek Robert Tor Rusell, bentuknya mengadopsi aliran Palladian, dengan pilar berderet seperti bangunan-bangunan tua di Cheltenham dan Bath, England.

Sementara gaya arsitektur Mughal bisa ditemukan di kompleks Humayun's Tomb. Peristirahatan terakhir Raja Mughal kedua ini merupakan karya arsitek Persia, Mirak Mirza Ghiyas, dibuat pada 1565.

Bangunan megah bertingkat dilengkapi kubah dan menara serta dinding berhias ragam geometris menjadi beberapa ciri khas arsitektur Mughal. Ditambah jaali, teralis dari batu kali diukir hingga membentuk lubang-lubang angin atau ventilasi. Serta char bagh atau taman simetris empat bidang di depan bangunan.

Dan contoh bangunan Mughal terindah tak lain adalah Taj Mahal di kota Agra, yang bisa ditempuh tiga jam perjalanan dengan kereta api dari New Delhi.

Sebuah bangunan pualam putih nan megah tampak samar-samar menjulang di depan Sungai Yamuna. Inilah potret yang tertangkap kamera saya saat berada di Agra Fort.

Tepatnya dari sebuah paviliun di Jahangiri Mahal, di mana kedua putri Shah Jahan, Jahanara dan Roshanara pernah tinggal. Terbersit tanya saya; siapakah yang senantiasa menyaksikan siluet Taj Mahal saat matahari terbenam?

"Pemandangan Taj Mahal selalu dramatis dan mengundang decak kagum dari waktu ke waktu!" tutur Dhaval Vyas, seorang sahabat saya yang berdarah Hindustan. "Ironisnya, selain menjadi simbol eternal love, istana ini juga perlambang cinta nan tragis."

Alasan Dhaval, karena Taj Mahal dibangun Shah Jahan untuk permaisuri Mumtaz Mahal setelah istrinya itu wafat. Jadi keindahan ini tak dapat dinikmati sang istri.

Berdasar sejarah, setelah Taj Mahal berdiri, Aurangzeb -putra Shah Jahan nomor tiga dari Mumtaz Mahal- mengadakan pemberontakan ketika sang raja tengah sakit. Aurangzeb bahkan merumahkan ayahandanya di Agra Fort hingga wafat.

Pertanyaan saya seolah mendapatkan jawaban; Shah Jahan lah yang paling setia memandangi Taj Mahal dari kejauhan -termasuk saat matahari terbenam-- hingga akhir hayatnya.

Nilai Taj Mahal saat dibangun tak kurang dari 40 biliun Rupee dan perlu 500 kg emas. Lama pengerjaannya 22 tahun dan mempekerjakan perupa seni sampai 20 ribu orang!

Keindahan bangunan yang telah menjadi ikon India ini tak perlu disangsikan lagi. Saya hanya perlu waktu ‘sedetik' untuk jatuh cinta pada pietra dura. Yaitu ukir-ukiran dekoratif pada bangunan utama Taj Mahal yang inspirasinya dipetik dari taman surga versi arsitektur Mughal.

Dengan detail, para pekerja seni menatah marmer putih untuk diisi dengan bebatuan warna hijau yang menggambarkan dedaunan dan sulur, serta warna merah untuk motif bunga.

KAKI HIMALAYA

Buat menutup perjalanan historis di jalur ‘segitiga' Delhi dan Agra, saya bertolak ke Jaipur atau Kota Kemenangan.

Tempat yang kondang sebagai tempat tinggal para pangeran atau Rajput -singkatan dari Raja Putra alias putra raja bila merunut bahasa Indonesia- dari golongan ksatria dalam kasta Hindu.

Hawa Mahal (Istana Angin) merupakan landmark Jaipur, dengan gaya perpaduan arsitektur Rajput dan Mughal. Uniknya, bangunan lima lantai ini dulunya diperuntukkan untuk kaum perempuan -semacam harem- dan dari jendelanya yang berjumlah 953 buah mereka dapat mengamati kehidupan di luar istana tanpa terlihat umum.

Menutup perjalanan segitiga di jantung India Utara, saya memberi bonus diri sendiri dengan mendinginkan temperatur tubuh ke Shimla, ibukota Himachal Pradesh yang terletak di ketinggian 2.188 m dpl. Letaknya di kaki pegunungan Himalaya sebelah barat.

Shimla atau kadang ditulis sebagai ‘Simla' merupakan British Summer Capital (1864) di masa pendudukan Inggris. Namanya diambil dari Shyamala Devi atau reinkarnasi dari Dewi Kali. Uniknya, meski Dewi Kali identik dengan sesuatu yang mematikan, ibukota Himachal Pradesh ini punya karakter sebaliknya.

Ia dijuluki sebagai Queen of the Snowy Hills dan nuansanya sungguh beda dengan potret-potret negeri India nan eksotis. Areanya dipenuhi pepohonan pinus, ek dan bebungaan rhododendron. Sementara bangunannya bergaya Tudor dan Neo-Gothic sebagai warisan era kolonial Inggris.

Belum lagi jalur keretanya yang meliuk-liuk melintasi bukit. Sejak masa pemerintahan British Raj, Shimla terkenal dengan memiliki hill station. Meski berada di ketinggian ekstrem, jaringan kereta apinya bisa diandalkan. Seperti rute terkenal Kalka-Shimla yang sudah eksis sejak 1906.

Sembari menaiki Toy Train melintasi kawasan seputaran Shimla, saya mencoba melafalkan ‘mantra' Hritik Roshan, ‘Chandu ke chcha ne chandu ke chachi ko chandi chandni chowk me' . Tetap sulit dan lidah melintir, tapi justru di situlah seninya!

MAJNU-KA-TILLA

Meski kuliner India mayoritas spicy, saya tak kuasa menolak. Karena citarasanya ‘kaya' dan sedap. Tapi kadang, ada ‘partai tambahan' sesudahnya: perut melilit.

Karenanya, sebagai tindakan preventif biasanya saya memilih yang bumbunya tidak ‘menyengat'. Alternatifnya, memilih hidangan Tibet -berangkat dari sejarah Yang Mulia Dalai Lama diasingkan ke negeri Hindustan dan tiap tahunnya ada pengungsi Tibet datang.

Majnu-ka-Tilla di Aruna Nagar, Old Delhi merupakan salah satu koloni Tibet yang terkenal. Kebutuhan kuliner sampai souvenir negeri Dalai Lama tersedia lengkap. Termasuk servis angkutan umum ke Dharamsala di provinsi Himachal Pradesh. Dari Dharamsala, pelancongan bisa diteruskan ke Shimla dalam wilayah yang sama.

Menu favorit saya di Majnu-ka-Tilla adalah nasi goreng jahe serta beef chili dry. Daging sapi disayat tipis-tipis, ditumis dengan lemak yak dan potongan cabai kering. Sedap dan menghangatkan tubuh di ketinggian ekstrem, juga di musim dingin.

कुछ बीती बातों का छोड़ रहा हूँ फव्वारा,
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दिल कि डायरी का है यह सार सारा,
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इस कविता में अपनी पहचान ख़ुद से है करारा यह बेचारा,
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सुबह घंटी बजने के ५ मिनट बाद नियमपूर्वक क्लास में है आरा,
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बिना पास के साइकिल स्टैंड वाले को दस रुपये का किया इशारा,
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बिन पॉलिश के जूतों और लंबे बालों को लिए क्लास में है घुसा जारा,
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डायरी न लाने पर एक दोस्त के कवर व बाकी से पन्ने लेकर असेम्बली में जाने की जुगाड़ है बिठारा,
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एडवर्ड सर की नजरों से बचने के लिए गंदे जूते पैंट से है घिसे जारा,
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छोटे कद का होकर भी असेम्बली की लाइन में सबसे पीछे है लगा जारा,
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प्रयेर के टाइम पे गर्लफ्रैंड के किस्से है सुनारा,
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नेशनल ऐनथम के दौरान अटेंशन में नहीं खड़ा हुआ जारा,
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'गुड मोर्निंग टीचर' को के.एल. सहगल के गीत की तरह है सुनारा,
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पहले ही पिरिएड में टिफिन का लिया चटकारा,
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चुपके से दूसरे कि बोतल से पानी है पिया जारा,
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लीव ऐप्लीकेशन न लाने पर जल्दी से मम्मी-पापा का साइन है किया जारा,
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बिना सिलेबस कि किताबों के भी नोविल्स के बोझ से बैग है फटा जारा,
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बोरिंग लेक्चर के बीच नींद में डूबा जारा और पकड़े जाने पर घिसा पिटा राग सुनारा,
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मॉरल साइंस के पिरिएड में फादर के संग ठहाके है लगारा,
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इंगलिश के पिरिएड में में मैथ का काम है किया जारा,
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मैथ का पिरिएड आने पर सिस्टर ऑफिस भागा जारा,
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एग्जाम से पहले बैठकर महनत से फर्रे है बनारा,
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टीचर के सिर को एरोप्लेन की लैंडिंग प्लेस है बनारा,
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चुन-चुन कर दूसरों पे रबड़ में फंसाकर बुलेट है बर्सारा,
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पंखे, ट्यूबलाईट और, बल्ब को चॉक का निशाना है बनारा,
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तबियत ख़राब होने का बहाना बनाकर घर को भगा जारा,
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फ़ुटबाल मैच में सामने वाले को धक्का देकर गिरारा और ख़ुद गिरने पर बाहर मिलने का न्योता देकर आरा,
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जूनियर साइड में नल की लाइन पर जाकर छोटे बच्चों को है हड़कारा,
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इंटरवल की घंटी बजने पर खिड़की से है कूदा जारा,
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कैंटीन में ५ रुपये में दो पैटी लेकर अपनी बुद्धि को है इतरारा,
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औरों की बर्थडे की ट्रीट खाकर अपनी बर्थडे के दिन स्कूल में न दिया नज़ारा,
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एब्सेंट होने पर रोज नया बहाना बनरा,
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कैंटीन की भीड़ में अपनी शक्ति का पूरा जोर दिखारा,
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दूसरे के बर्गर के चिथड़े कर फूले नहीं समारा,
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दो दोस्तों के बीच डब्लू.डब्लू.एफ करवाकर मंद-मंद मुस्करारा,
सायोनारा|
क्लास से बंक मारकर पूरे स्कूल में गश्त है लगारा,
सायोनारा|
पीछे बैठकर दोस्तों से गप्पें है लडारा,
सायोनारा|
एग्जाम में आगे वाले को आन्सर बताने के लिए पटारा और न बताने पर उसे भूखे शेर कि तरह है घूरे जारा,
सायोनारा|
केमिस्ट्री लैब में नाइट्रिक एसिड से घर की टकसाल के सारे सिक्के है चमकारा,
सायोनारा|
विभिन्न रसायनों को मिला सतरंगी चित्र है बनारा,
सायोनारा|
५ टी.टी  और दो बीकर तोड़ने की गाथा गर्व से पूरी क्लास को है सुनारा,
सायोनारा|
फिजिक्स लैब में मरकरी कि गोलियाँ है बनरा,
सायोनारा|
वहाँ के इन्सटरूमंट्स तोड़कर, उनके पहले से टूटे होने कि ख़बर सच्चाई से टीचर को है सुनारा,
सायोनारा|
प्रोजक्ट टाइप करने के बहाने पूरा दिन कमप्यूटर लैब में ऐ.सी. के मजे है उड़ारा,
सायोनारा|
मक्खन लगाकर सब टीचर्स का बनना चाह रहा दुलारा और दूसरों के मक्खन लगाने को सहन नहीं कर पारा,
सायोनारा|
स्पोर्ट्स डे की शाम कॉरिडोर में बम्ब है छुड़ारा,
सायोनारा|
और भड़ाम की आवाज आने पर सीना फूलकर दुगना हुआ जारा,
सायोनारा|
एग्जाम टाइम में सब टीचर्स के पैर छूकर जारा,
सायोनारा|
सेकंड क्लास की सीड़ियों से  "ग्रेट वाल पार आफ चाइना" के उस पार है झाँका जारा,
सायोनारा|
स्कूल के अन्दर आने के रास्ते में बड़ा गेट आते ही स्पीड धीमी कर मुंडी है घुमारा,
सायोनारा|
कम्बाइंड स्कूल सैलिब्रैशन के लिए १५ अगस्त का इंतज़ार है किया जारा,
सायोनारा|
इन सब को याद कर बड़ी मुश्किल से हूँ में अश्रुधारा को रोक पारा,
सायोनारा|
सैंट पीटर्स के गलियारों में दिल मेरा हारा,
सायोनारा|
यहाँ है सब टीचर्स का स्नेह और फादर मैथ्यू का प्यार बहुत सारा,
सायोनारा|
यहाँ है मानवता का फव्वारा,
सायोनारा|
यह है मार्गदर्शक हमारा,
सायोनारा|
येह है प्यार का गुलिस्तां हमारा,
सायोनारा|
आज इन सब चीजों को कर रहा हूँ में सायोनारा
सायोनारा, सायोनारा, सायोनारा...
...अलविदा सैंट पीटर्स...

Esa imagen, sumada a la presencia constante que había en mi casa de historias de la India, convirtió al Taj Mahal en una pequeña obsesión para mí. En el año 1997, al regresar mis padres de su primera visita a la India, me trajeron un Taj Mahal en miniatura, una réplica en mármol que guardé celosamente por años hasta que tuve la chance de visitarlo en tamaño real.

Agra

Después de otra noche en tren llegué a la ciudad de Agra, en el estado de Uttar Pradesh, ahora moviéndome hacia el oeste del país.

Como ciudad, Agra no tiene grandes atractivos en general, a excepción del llamado Fuerte Rojo y, sobre todo, el mundialmente conocido Taj Mahal. De hecho, la única razón que me movía a visitar este lugar fue conocer el famoso monumento, elegido una de las siete maravillas del mundo moderno, y más oficialmente, nombrado Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la UNESCO.

Si bien, en principio, se trataba de una visita que, en medio de mi periplo espiritual, podría tildarse de turística, yo no iba a dejar pasar la oportunidad de conocer el Taj Mahal.

Estamos hablando del mausoleo que Shah Jahan, un emperador de la dinastía mogol del siglo XVII, mandó a construir para su amada, Mumtaz Mahal, luego de que ella muriera dando a luz. Esta ofrenda póstuma del emperador fue realizada enteramente en mármol blanco traído desde canteras situadas en el estadio de Rajasthan, a más de 300 km. de distancia.

Después de semejante inversión, las finanzas del reino quedaron en bancarrota, y el emperador fue destronado por su hijo, pero su homenaje de amor quedó incólume.

Patas cortas

Antes de llegar a Agra me habían comentado que para los extranjeros el precio del ingreso al predio era alto. Por otro lado, a los indios se les cobra una entrada muy barata.

De todos modos, no sólo en la India sucede esto, también en los parques y reservas de la Patagonia argentina, por ejemplo, el precio para los extranjeros es tres veces mayor que para los nacionales. Lo mismo sucede en algunas zonas de España.

Me ha sido explicado últimamente, que esta diferencia tiene que ver con el hecho de que estos sitios (reservas naturales, ruinas históricas, monumentos) son muchas veces sostenidos con la contribución fiscal pública y por ende es natural que a aquellos ciudadanos que ya están aportando para el sostenimiento, no se les cobre o se les cobre un canon mínimo.

En aquel entonces, y más allá de mi ajustado presupuesto, la diferencia de precios me irritó y atribuí toda la maniobra a la intención de sacar dinero a los turistas, que están dispuestos a gastar más.

Yo sabía que si pagaba el ingreso para turista iba a quedar ajustado de dinero, así que previsoramente me inventé un carnet falso de periodista internacional; una táctica que en el pasado me había dado buenos resultados.

Además, como yo tengo una parte de sangre “árabe” (en Argentina se diría “sirio-libanesa”), también tengo, inevitablemente, ciertos rasgos fisonómicos “árabes”. Fue así como decidí, siguiendo el “sabio” consejo de algunos amigos,  hacerme pasar por un indio.

Debo admitir que para esta metamorfosis no me esmeré en demasía, pues tendría que haberme dejado el bigote, elemento ineludible de la estética varonil india, y además tendría que haberme vestido con una camisa algo gastada y con pantalones largos color caqui. Pero bueno, un buen bigote tarda tiempo en crecer y también pensaba que a través de la taquilla, el hombre que cobraba las entradas no vería más que mi rostro.

Subestimé, es cierto, la capacidad de los indios de identificar, incluso a ciegas, a un extranjero. 

Relato los hechos:

Una vez en la puerta de entrada al monumento me puse, con poca naturalidad, en la cola de los indios y esperé mi turno; ya en la cola, una señora india y turista, inquirió sobre mi procedencia de manera ominosa.

Al llegar a la taquilla dije lo más convincentemente que pude la palabra “ek”, que en hindi, el idioma oficial de la India, quiere decir “uno”, imitando así las palabras del visitante que antes de mí había solicitado su billete.

El vendedor, que no era ingenuo, me preguntó en inglés de que país era, y como yo dije “India”, comenzó a hablarme en hindi para probarme. Por supuesto, yo me quedé mirando al infinito como si pensara, repitiendo “ek” como si fuera una fórmula mágica. Previsiblemente tuve que retirarme de la fila sin mi entrada.

Sin resignarme fui a la administración a decir que era periodista y que quería entrar, pero me dijeron que el jefe venía más tarde y que si quería me sentara a esperar.

Ahorro

A diferencia de lo que me habían comentado, el precio de la entrada para turistas al monumento costaba un poco menos de lo previsto, lo cual no era poco, pero si mucho menos que el monto original. Para los indios el precio era de menos de un dólar.

Al inicio refunfuñé un rato, después pensé que no tenía sentido resistirse a los hechos y era mejor dejar fluir el dinero y disfrutar del lugar.

Lo que estaba claro es que las dos mentiras que yo tanto había planeado habían fracasado rotundamente. Yo era consciente de que mentir era incorrecto pero me pareció válido en aquella circunstancia pues el precio de la entrada era totalmente desubicado respecto al resto de los precios de la India.

Más allá de mi quijotesca lucha en contra del provecho comercial, estaba claro que mis engaños no habían servido para nada, y pude comprobar inmediatamente aquello sobre las cortas patas de la mentira.

Por otra parte, la situación fue buena y edificante para mí, pues me obligó a gastar una suma que no quería, pero que sí tenía.

Al final del viaje mis finanzas estuvieron bien, por lo que aquel gasto no fue terrible. La enseñanza que saqué fue que el ahorro no siempre es correcto y puede transformarse en una enfermedad; en mi caso, más que ahorro, era mezquindad. 

Fin de obsesión

Lo mejor de todo es que el gasto valió la pena, pues el Taj Mahal es realmente hermoso. Está rodeado de idílicos jardines y la presencia de las fuentes y los estanques convierten la visita en un espectáculo de fábula. Además, el sagrado río Yamuna corre justo detrás del recinto.

Como se trata de una construcción musulmana, aparte del mausoleo blanco con la cúpula redonda, hay algunos otros pequeños edificios, y a los lados, hay dos recintos para orar, conforme a la tradición del Islam; es decir, dos muros sin imágenes, y sólo columnas.

La perfecta simetría del complejo arquitectónico lleva automáticamente a un estado de armonía y de encantamiento.

Temprano en la mañana, debido al agua de los estanques, se levanta una bruma que sumada al blanco inmaculado del mármol, hace nebulosa la vista y más difícil aún el sacar fotos nítidas. De todos modos, la bruma que obstaculiza las fotos otorga un clima maravilloso para disfrutar el lugar con los propios ojos.

En mi caso, recorrí todos los alrededores, me senté sobre el césped a gozar del jardín y sus flores, y tal era mi embelesamiento que incluso me tomé una foto con un turista japonés al que nunca antes había visto!

Evidentemente me quedé un buen rato adentro del recinto, es decir que aproveché con creces el billete que tanto esfuerzo, más mental que material, me costó pagar.

Una vez terminado el día pude comprobar que a pesar de ser un monumento, a priori, turístico, el Taj Mahal es muy espiritual; no sólo por las buenas emociones que despierta en el visitante gracias a su belleza, sino también porque se trata de un tributo al amor, y al parecer, no hay nada más ligado al espíritu o al alma que el amor verdadero. 

I generally travel by normal non-ac chair car but today (180908), fortunately I had booked ticket for AC Chair Car. I should say, it was my good luck today. Why??? Simply because most of my fellow members were either Brazilians, not 1 or 2 but a whole group of 35 (30 women and 5 men) who are visiting India (Itinerary: Brazil - Delhi - Rishikesh - Varanasi - Agra - Delhi-Brazil) for about 23 days and 2 were French and a few fellow country men. I was simply thrilled to see so many foreigners as one of my hobby is to host and entertain them when they visit India. In the past too, I have hosted quiet a few of them at my place and have shown them the local places. I am also a member of the famous hospitality site www.couchsurfing.com

My seat number in the train was 57 in coach C4 and the immediate next person was Daniela, a beautiful Brazilian girl. I asked her what language she speaks and she said Portuguese. Her English was not very good but she was comfortably able to put her message across which is commendable considering she has been in India just for 13 days. I must say that all Brazilian women in that coach were very pretty and were from all age groups ranging from may be 15 yr. old to 60+. I came to know from Daniela that Brazilians are the most friendly people among all countries in the world. May be that's why everybody was very friendly in that coach too.

Daniela is an investment banker by profession, oldest among her 2 brothers and a sister and always travels alone. Hats off to Brazilian women as all were travelling independently without their families. This shows an adventurous, brave and independent nature of women of Brazil unlike Indian women who are very shy in nature. If it would have been Indian group tour, there would have hardly been any independent travellers. Istead all would have been families as part of the group. I asked her as to why everybody is sleeping in the train and she said that Brazil is 8.5 hrs. behind India thus it was midnight at that time in Brazil and they had been awake since 3:00 am in the morning to catch this train.

The group was returning from Rishikesh after a philosophical visit to some Ashram where they stayed for about 8-10 days. Most people in the group were clad in Indian dresses like salvar kameez, or kurtas etc. with strings of bead around their necks. They were looking absolutely stunning in that Indian ethnic wear.

To pass time...they also sang songs from Brazil and then some chanting of Indian shlokas took place...although all of the Brazilian songs went above my head but, since they were singing in chorus, it was simply entertaining. I had never before enjoyed so much on a train journey from Roorkee to Delhi. I thank all the group members and expecially Daniela who told me so much about Brazilians etc. She also taught me two Portuguese words on my request i.e. Lingul (very Beautiful) and Vinito (Not so beautiful). It was great talking to her. I was also fortunate to get group snaps clicked by a fellow Indian passenger and some Brazilians. Just hope that they post the pictures to me so I can put them up too on this blog post later.

I have personally invited everybody (through their group leader) to my place in Delhi as well for tasting Indian food when and if they are able to spare some time before they leave for Brazil.

I'll post some more interesting pics and some real amazing videos of the function real soon...

Picking up from the first post of famous diamonds, here is the next in line….Agra

If I were to describe this gem in one word, it would be “captivating”.

Introducing the Agra!

Agra

Agra is the site of the Taj Mahal, one of the most beautiful buildings in the world. The diamond has a long history, with many of the earlier accounts disputed.

It has been suggested that in 1526 the Agra diamond was taken into the possession of Babur, the first Mogul Emperor, after he defeated the Rajah of Gwalior in battle.  It is recorded that Babur wore the Agra diamond in his turban.

In 1739, the Agra may have been amongst loot captured by Nadir Shah when the Persian sacked Delhi, however the gem eventually returned to India.

The diamond was reputedly smuggled to England by young military officers in around 1857, in the year of the Indian Mutiny.  However the Agra was apparently already in the possession of the Duke of Brunswick, who had paid the huge price of 348,600 francs for the stone.

Later in the 19th century, the Agra was reduced to just under 32 carats, to eliminate some black inclusions.  Even at this stage it was questioned whether the Agra was indeed the same stone that some thought it was.

More formal records indicate that Edwin Streeter purchased the Agra from Bram Hertz, with Hertz giving Streeter over £15,000 in jewels and cash in return.

Despite a lengthy lawsuit relating to the Agra, the stone remained in Streeter’s stock until 1904 when the Parisian jewellers La Cloche Freres, put the item up for sale at Christie’s in 1905.

Shortly after 1909 the gemstone was acquired by Louis Winans, son of a wealthy American railroad engineer.  Louis Winans settled in Brighton and used a local jeweller to help him create a stunning collection of coloured diamonds.

In 1990, the Agra and two other diamonds from the collection were auctioned at Christie’s.  The vendor had inherited them in 1927, and during the Second World War had buried them in the garden for safe keeping.

The Agra was certified as a fancy light pink natural coloured VSI2, and sold for £4,070,000, making it at that time, the most expensive pink diamond in the world.

Since then, the Agra has again been recut, to 28.15 carats.

What a history! Wouldn't it be interesting if one could travel through time and watch how all these events took place? :)

Source: De Beers

Now that at last some Kanpuriya computer and latest laptop dealers have got their hands on the copy of the latest Ubuntu Linux Hardy Heron 8.04.1 - they are beginning to realize the beauty of using non pirated and legal software which works better than other COSTLY and outdated softwares and operating systems.

One of the key requirements for local computer assemblers in Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Rajasthan, Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Jharkhand, Orissa, West Bengal, Kashmir - is to show to their customers the speed and performance of modern Assembled Computers AS COMPARED to BRANDED computers from Indian and foreign computer manufacturers which often use outdated hardware and motherboards 6 to 18 months older than those available in the assembled market.

To show off to their customers, the sheer fast performance of latest Taiwan motherboards, memory, hard disks and graphics cards, some of the smarter computer dealers have started loading LEGAL and FREE pre installed Ubuntu with OpenOffice suite of applications for Word Processing, Emails, Spreadsheets, Presentations and Graphics. For Rs 100/- they also hand over the 700 MB Live CD of latest version of Ubuntu.

Everyone is happy, the customers as well as computer dealers in Kanpur, Lucknow, Patna, Varanasi, Allahabad, Gorakhpur, Kathmandu, Guwahati, Jaipur, Bhopal, Bikaner, Surat, Raipur, Kolkata, Shillong, are busy giving the most modern assembled computers and Ubuntu operating system with latest version of Free Firefox browser. And cheap, fast broadband Internet from BSNL can be easily installed at just Rs 250 per month. Any better way to learn latest computer softwares that are LEGAL and FREE and available in SOURCE CODE ?

So the Pirates of India and China can now laugh all the way to the bank without doing any software chori - from Kashmir to Kanya Kumari, and from Nagaland to Gujarat.

Time to visit the chardham of legal software - just learn and teach and distribute FREE, LEGAL, OPEN SOURCE software to EVERYONE who needs the LATEST softwares in the world. And yes do not forget to connect the DataOne high speed and fast BSNL Broadband Internet connection for just Rs 250 to your latest and fundoo Ubuntu desktop or laptop computer.

No need to live in dinosaur age of costly desktop, laptop, server and office software or faltoo pirated copies of softwares from last century. Wake up - this is YEAR 2008 and Ubuntu Linux software has arrived in all the villages and cities of India. Time to wake up and get educated in the latest technologies and Free, legal, original, certified AND Open Source softwares.

Take home your own PERSONAL copy of latest and modern softwares in the world - on a 700 MB Ubuntu Linux CD. - एक था राजा एक थी रानी -

Now that at last some Kanpuriya computer and latest laptop dealers have got their hands on the copy of the latest Ubuntu Linux Hardy Heron 8.04.1 - they are beginning to realize the beauty of using non pirated and legal software which works better than other COSTLY and outdated softwares and operating systems.

One of the key requirements for local computer assemblers in Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Rajasthan, Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Jharkhand, Orissa, West Bengal, Kashmir - is to show to their customers the speed and performance of modern Assembled Computers AS COMPARED to BRANDED computers from Indian and foreign computer manufacturers which use outdated hardware and motherboards 6 to 18 months older than those available in the assembled market.

To show off to their customers, the sheer fast performance of latest Taiwan motherboards, memory, hard disks and graphics cards, some of the smarter computer dealers have started loading LEGAL and FREE pre installed Ubuntu with OpenOffice suite of applications for Word Processing, Emails, Spreadsheets, Presentations and Graphics. For Rs 100/- they also hand over the 700 MB Live CD of latest version of Ubuntu.

Everyone is happy, the customers as well as compter dealers in Kanpur, Lucknow, Patna, Varanasi, Allahabad, Gorakhpur, Kathmandu, Guwahati, Jaipur, Bhopal, Bikaner, Surat, Raipur, Kolkata, Shillong, are busy giving the most modern assembled computers and Ubuntu operating system with latest version of Free Firefox browser.

So the Pirates of India and China can now laugh all the way to the bank without doing any software chori - from Kashmir to Kanya Kumari, and from Nagaland to Gujarat.

Time to visit the chardham of legal software - just learn and teach and distribute FREE, LEGAL, OPEN SOURCE software to EVERYONE who needs the LATEST softwares in the world. And yes do not forget to connect the DataOne high speed and fast BSNL Broadband Internet connection for just Rs 250 to your latest and fundoo Ubuntu desktop or laptop computer.

No need to live in dinosaur age of costly desktop, laptop, server and office software or faltoo pirated copies of softwares from last century. Wake up - this is YEAR 2008 and Ubuntu Linux software has arrived in all the villages and cities of India. Time to wake up and get educated in the latest technologies and Free, legal, original, certified AND Open Source softwares.

Take home your own PERSONAL copy of latest and modern softwares in the world - on a 700 MB Ubunt CD.

Now that at last some Kanpuriya computer and latest laptop dealers have got their hands on the copy of the latest Ubuntu Linux Hardy Heron 8.04.1 CD - they are beginning to realize the beauty of using non pirated and legal software which works better than other COSTLY and outdated softwares and operating systems.

One of the key requirements for local computer assemblers in Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Rajasthan, Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Jharkhand, Orissa, West Bengal, Kashmir - is to show to their customers the speed and performance of modern Assembled Computers AS COMPARED to BRANDED computers from Indian and foreign computer manufacturers which use outdated hardware and motherboards 6 to 18 months older than those available in the assembled market.

To show off to their customers, the sheer fast performance of latest Taiwan motherboards, memory, hard disks and graphics cards, some of the smarter computer dealers have started loading LEGAL and FREE pre installed Ubuntu with OpenOffice suite of applications for Word Processing, Emails, Spreadsheets, Presentations and Graphics. For Rs 100/- they also hand over the 700 MB Live CD of latest version of Ubuntu downloaded from the Ubuntu servers - on a good Internet connection.

Everyone is happy, the customers as well as computer dealers in Kanpur, Lucknow, Patna, Varanasi, Allahabad, Gorakhpur, Kathmandu, Guwahati, Jaipur, Bhopal, Bikaner, Surat, Raipur, Kolkata, Shillong, are busy giving the most modern assembled computers and Ubuntu operating system with latest version of Free Firefox browser.

So the Caribbean Pirates of India and China can now laugh all the way to the bank without doing any software chori - or seena jori - from Kashmir to Kanya Kumari, and from Nagaland to Gujarat.

Time to visit the chardham of legal software - just Learn and Teach and Distribute FREE, LEGAL, OPEN SOURCE software to EVERYONE who needs the LATEST softwares in the world. And yes do not forget to connect the DataOne high speed and fast BSNL Broadband Internet connection for just Rs 250 to your latest and fundoo Ubuntu desktop or laptop computer. Be an Ubuntu Kanpuriya.

No need to live in dinosaur age of costly Desktop, Laptop, Server and Office productivity software or faltoo pirated copies of softwares from last century. Wake up this is YEAR 2008 and Ubuntu Linux software has arrived in all the villages of India. Time to wake up and get educated in the latest technologies and Free, legal, original, certified AND Open Source softwares.

No need to wait for approval from IIT Professors or obsolete Computer Instructors teaching obsolete computer skills in obsolete computer training institutes. And yes, just print off your own Ubuntu Linux Certified Expert Certificate on your own Ubuntu compatible cheap printer.

Do NOT forget to sign the Ubuntu certificate yourself in your BEST handwriting !!

In the heart of New Delhi, the bustling capital of India, a lotus-shaped outline has etched itself on the consciousness of the city's inhabitants, capturing their imagination, fuelling their curiosity, and revolutionising the concept of worship. This is the Bahá'í Mashriqu'l-Adhkar, better known as the "Lotus Temple". With the dawning of every new day, an ever-rising tide of visitors surges to its doorsteps to savour its beauty and bask in its serenely spiritual atmosphere.

Since its dedication to public worship in December 1986, this Mother Temple of the Indian sub-continent has seen millions of people cross its threshold, making it one of the most visited edifices in India. From its high-perched pedestal, this 'Lotus' casts its benevolent glance over vast green lawns and avenues covering an expanse of 26 acres of land. Its soothingly quiet Prayer Hall and tranquil surroundings have touched the hearts of the Temple's numerous visitors, awakening in them a desire to trace its inspirational source and capture a bit of its peace for themselves.

As an evocative symbol of beauty and purity, representative of divinity, the lotus flower remains unsurpassed in Indian iconography. Rising up pure and unsullied from stagnant water, the lotus represents the manifestation of God. The architect used this ancient Indian symbol to create a design of ethereal beauty and apparent simplicity, belying the complex geometry underlying its execution in concrete form. Twentieth-century architecture has been characterised by a high degree of technological prowess; however, it has been, by and large, unexceptional in aesthetic value. The Lotus Temple provides one of the rare exceptions with its remarkable fusion of ancient concept, modem engineering skill, and architectural inspiration, making it the focus of attention amongst engineers and architects the world over. In the absence of sophisticated equipment, the extremely complex design called for the highest order of engineering ingenuity to be implemented by means of traditional workmanship. No wonder, then, which the Lotus Temple, as a symbol of faith and human endeavour expended in the path of God, became the recipient of accolades and world-wide acclaim.

Early international recognition came its way soon after completion, when the International Federation for Religious Art and Architecture, based in the United States, conferred upon Mr. Sahba the award for "excellence in religious art and architecture for 1987". In 1988, the edifice received its second international award, this time for its structural design, from the Institute of Structural Engineers of the United Kingdom. The citation award reads: "For producing a building so emulating the beauty of a flower and so striking in its visual impact". That same year, the Illuminating Engineering Society of North America conferred its international award on the Temple for the excellence of its outdoor illumination. In 1990, the American Concrete Institute presented an award to the Temple as one of the most finely built concrete structures. In 2000, GlobArt Academy of Vienna, Austria, granted its "Glob Art Academy 2000" award in recognition of "the magnitude of the service of [this] Taj Mahal of the 20th century in promoting the unity and harmony of people of all nations, religions and social strata, to an extent unsurpassed by any other architectural monument world-wide".

The value of beauty and symmetry in architecture by itself is not sufficient to immortalize a building. What is important is the response the structure evokes in the hearts of the people. Ravi Shankar, the sitar maestro, recalls that he was "so deeply moved visiting this great beautiful place, that I find no words to express my feelings". All that Dizzy Gillespie, the late renowned Baha'i jazz musician, could exclaim was: "I cannot believe it! It is God's work". An Indian diplomat was moved to describe the Temple as a "symbol of spiritual refinement of mankind". Indeed, the construction of the Baha'i House of Worship of Bahapur was a significant chapter in the making of Baha'i history on the Indian sub-continent.
Obedient to the command of Baha'u'llah enshrined in the most holy book of the Baha'i religion, "0 people of Creation, build ye houses as perfect as can be built on earth in the Name of Him who is the Lord of Revelation...", Baha'is have endeavoured to their utmost to build houses of worship as beautiful and distinctive as possible. They have been inspired by the divine outpourings from the pen of Baha'u'llah and His son 'Abdu'1-Baha, and by the noble example set by Shoghi Effendi, the Guardian of the Baha'i Faith, who initiated the process by raising up the magnificent edifices at the World Centre of the Baha'i religion in Haifa, Israel. The houses of worship in North and Central America, Europe, Africa, Australia, and Western Samoa each reflect a pristine beauty and freshness of approach. This flowering of Baha'i architecture was further perpetuated by the blossoming of the 'Lotus of Bahapur'.

The Bahá'í Temple in New Delhi, however, occupies a unique position. Not only does it embody the spiritual aspirations and basic beliefs of the world-wide Bahá'í community, but, significantly in a land of myriad religions, it has begun to be seen as providing a unifying link, bringing divergent thoughts into harmony by virtue of its principle of oneness - of God, religion, and mankind. This, perhaps, is the secret of its unabated popularity.

Against the backdrop of a religious milieu which encourages the fragmentation of the Supreme Reality into innumerable gods and goddesses, each personifying a specific attribute of the Almighty, the Bahá'í Temple, with its total absence of idols, elicits bewilderment as well as favourable response. When the main entrance gate was first opened to the general public on 1 January 1987, visitors flocked to the 'Lotus Temple' out of sheer curiosity. The vast lawns, the massive white structure, the high-ceilinged Central Auditorium and a Temple without idols standing so near the ancient 'Kalkaji Temple' aroused the interest of all.

Indian visitors, from the most urbane to the simplest rural folk, expressed perplexity at the absence of any deity. Explaining the all-pervasive nature of the Creator which defies deification became a challenge. Many times guides helping to maintain decorum inside the Prayer Hall were startled by the astonished exclamations of visitors wondering aloud where the object of adoration was. Some of them, in their simplicity, paid obeisance to the lectern, surreptitiously placing a flower or two - an amusing as well as a touching sight. Awed by the beauty and grandeur of the edifice, they struggled to grasp the spiritual significance of this material structure.

As understanding dawned, a typical response became: "Few temples radiate the atmosphere of sublimity, peace, and calm so necessary to elevate a devotee spiritually as the Bahá'í House of Worship". Other repeated comments included: "Where there is silence, the spirit is eloquent" and "One feels one is at last entering into the estate of the soul, the state of stillness and peace". The visitors were aided in their efforts by the serenity of the Prayer Hall and the assistance of volunteer guides and staff who explained the raison-d'etre of the Temple. The innate sense of reverence of the Indian for the Omnipresence often manifested itself in the act of reverently touching the steps leading into the Prayer Hall.

Visitors from the West often came to critically appraise a structure which had gained fame as a marvel of 20th-century architecture. For them it was sometimes a grudging, sometimes a spontaneous realisation that the phenomenon called faith transcends logic and that the universal ethic of love envelops all. They, too, were humbled at this altar of faith and love.

No matter what the identity of the visitors, from the Orient or the Occident, from North or South, of humble origins or exalted positions, all have been unanimous in their appreciation of both the physical grandeur as well as the lofty purpose of the House of Worship. One visitor commented: "The most beautiful experience. Its magnificence, charm and glamour are awe-inspiring. It reflects the dream of all humanity to bring together a new civilisation for all people." A renowned visitor from India opined, "Architecturally, artistically, ethically, the edifice is a paragon of perfection."

The aura of silence surrounding the Prayer Hall instills reverence. Some were moved by what they termed the 'eloquent silence'; others said that the 'divine atmosphere' inside touched the heart. All were affected in various degrees by the peace and beauty of the sanctum sanctorum.

It's now my third day in India and I feel I have already experienced so much.  I am in my hotel in Agra, just south of Delhi, where the Taj Mahal is.  What a magnificent sight.  I went there at 6:30 just before sunrise.  The moon was still out and the air was quite foggy making the Taj Mahal look even more majestic.  I stayed a couple of hours and watched the sun come up which then gave the place a richer feel because the marble is translucent and takes on a more yellow colour.

India itself is proving a real experience.  I am overwhelmed with ambivalence. There is extreme beauty here but the overriding line is poverty.  There have been times here when I have even been scared going about.  It has been a long time since I have been as scared as when my driver left me in his car to go and get some documents stamped when taking me on the four-hour journey from Delhi to Agra.  Sitting there I watched some of the locals come up who started tapping on the window asking for money.  This I am getting used to in general but what made my heart race was when one of them opened a small basket with a Cobra in it!

“I make the snake dance for you Sir.”

No you will not I'm thinking to myself.  Right, look away.  Ignore ignore ignore.  Please go away (He's still tap tapping on my window).

“The snake is dancing for you Sir.”

I don't care if the snake is laying golden eggs.  My mind is now on override.  Casually lock my door.  Casually wind up the window on the drivers side and lock his door.  There is no way that snake is coming in here.  Driver comes back.  Few.  Open door and let him in.  About to drive off so it's ok to look at the man again.  He's now got a dancing monkey.  Breathe normally again.  Monkeys are ok... although this was even a scary looking monkey.  Off we go.  Goodbye crazy snake and monkey charmer.  Hope I don't see you on the way back!

Last year while I was planning my India tour I searched through various websites and looked out for the best places to stay and what to shop for and eat etc.. .... I came across this site who organized my India vacations and I had a great holiday.

 When I reached India , their representative came to recieve me at the airport at midnight and another person helped me to carry the luggage in the car. As we drove to the hotel, he explained the holiday plan in detail and also assisted in checking in at the hotel. The hotel was beautiful and surely comfortable.

 In the morning, I enjoyed North Indian breakfast. The driver was waiting for me and we set off for a lovely drive from Delhi to Agra. Car was comfortable and driver drove safely and followed all traffic rules. Driver was fluent in English and knew about the city. We stopped at Country Inn on the midway for snacks and tea. The journey was comfortable. I enjoyed watching sunrise and the lovely green fields on the countryside.

 When I reached Agra , their local representative at Agra, came down to assist me to check in at the hotel and told me about Agra. He told me about various menus and especially Mughlai cuisine!!

 Lunch was good and food was tasty!!  Relaxed  for sometime in the hotel. The interiors of the hotel was also beautiful and from the comfort of my hotel room, I could see the Taj!!

 The guide arrived on time and we went to see the seventh wonder of the world Taj Mahal.

 Taj Mahal is called monument of love. It was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz. About 22,000 skilled craftsmen were called from various countries. It took about 22 years to construct this white marble edifice with semi precious stones. I spend about three hours in admiring the traditional motifs and beautiful interiors.  Every chamber and every wall of this monument has a unique floral or geometric shaped designs. The inlay work has semi precious stones and gems. Hours can be spent in admiring every motif in every chamber or corner or wall of this magnificient monument. Various artists, architects, designers were called from different countries to construct this historical monument. The beauty of this monument has amazed billions across the globe!!!

 It looks beautiful when the sun sets. I have decided to  come back again to see Taj on Full Moon Light !!!

Visiting Taj Mahal in Agra is always in the India Tour Packages. In my opinion India Vacations are incomplete without Taj Mahal.  The monument with immense amount of aesthetic beauty is the largest mausoleum built by an emperor in the memory of his beloved wife.

  A tour to India is truly a special one by the first visit of the Taj Mahal, but it becomes exceptionally special, if visited at the time of Taj Mahotsav.

 The Taj Mahotsav

The annual festival of Taj Mahotsav is held during 18th to 27th of February every year. The venue is Shilpgram, near Taj Mahal. The festival is an ode to the rich cultural heritage of Uttar Pradesh. Lasting for 10 days, the festival is an everlasting experience. The festival is a continuous 10 days celebration, with artists from all over India showcasing there talent. Taj Mahotsav is one of the spectacular festivals in India and is organized by Uttar Pradesh Tourism. Spring time is the time of the year when nature dawns all its colorful grandeur and Agra bursts into colorful celebrations. For 10 days there is a sheer celebration of Uttar Pradesh's rich heritage of arts, crafts, culture, cuisine, dance and music. It is the time of Taj Mahotsava. There are festivities all around and Agra truly puts on the colors of joy and gets modified into one non-stop carnival. It is one of the major attractions for tourists, as it draws thousands of visitors to Agra from India as well as abroad. During the festival, Agra and Taj Mahal comes to a new life with heaps of activities. The whole place looks like a mini Uttar Pradesh market.

The Performances

The festival invites best artists from all over India. The folk artists, musicians, dramatists and other artisans gather at the 10 days celebration and enliven the environment. Throughout the Taj Mahotsav, one can experience a profusion of folk music and dances of Bundelkhand, 'Nautanki' (Drama), 'Sapera' dance of Rajasthan, Lavani of Maharashtra, Kathakali of Kerala and other folk dance.

Shopping

The whole place becomes a small market, where one can get handicrafts, antiques, woodwork, ivory work and other specialty items of Uttar Pradesh. Exquisite crafts like marble inlays, wood carvings from Saharan Pur; brass and other metal-ware from Moradabad; handmade carpets of Badohi; the blue pottery of Khurja; the Chikan work of Lucknow; the silk of Banares are exhibited during the Taj Festival.

 Cuisine

 A main attraction of Taj Festival is the Food-festival, a gathering of the chefs and specialty cooks of Uttar Pradesh specialties. Mughlai cuisine is the main cuisine of the state. It has been localized by the villages and towns. Some of the major delicacies are the Mughalai items of Lucknow, Vegetarian delight of Varanasi, Non vegetarian delights of Lucknow and Agra. Satisfy your taste buds with the exotic cuisine's and delicacies prepared by some of the oldest exponents and the typical preparations from the interiors of Uttar Pradesh at the Food Festival here.

Taj Mahotsav recreates the glory and ambience once associated with Mughal Emperors, through the exquisite cultural & classical performances held at the backdrop of the ageless sites - Taj Mahal.

Waschtag! Da A. krank ist verzichten wir aufs Taj und bleiben im Hotel. Heute sind wir schon den 6. Tag in Agra! Es gefällt uns wider Erwarten ausnehmend gut, eine echte Überraschung, wenn ich bedenke, wie lange wir schon nach Indien kommen, und wie wir es immer vermieden haben Agra zu besuchen. Gestern haben wir uns Sikandra angeschaut: das Grabmal ist vom dichtem Grün umgeben, die wunderschönen scheuen Hirschziegenantilopen sind hier in großer Zahl vorhanden, viele Pfauen hat’s auch und meine Lieblingsaffen die Hanumänner. Am späten Nachmittag sammeln sich ganze Familien (insges. vielleicht 100 Affen), und nach kurzem Warten kommen drei Inder mit großen Säcken voll Obst, Gemüse, Bun und Nüssen; leise pfeifend laufen die Affen ihnen entgegen: es gibt wenig Streit unter ihnen, sie sind kaum aggressiv. Als die Inder merken, dass ich mich freue und Interesse habe, geben sie mir ganze Hände voll Erdnüsse und ich füttere die Affen, währen A. Photos macht. Vorher muss aber erst ein kräftiger finster guckender Rhesusaffenmann verjagt werden (ich hab ja meine Erfahrungen mit ihnen). Die Hannumänner sind ganz sanft, sie nehmen meine Hand, halten sie fest und essen eine Nuss nach der anderen, schauen mich ab und zu dabei an, ein Weibchen gibt mir eine leichte Ohrfeige. Ihre Hände und Füße fühlen sich ganz kalt, glatt und trocken an. Als ich probehalber versuche eine Äffin zu lausen (wie früher bei Api), schaut sie mich mit gerunzelter Stirn an und ich lasse es lieber. Achim ist ein bisschen genervt, weil die Inder alle stehen bleiben, mich verzückt anlächeln oder gar fotografieren.

Abends gehen wir wieder unser Bhang-Lassi trinken, wir bekommen sogar noch ein Glas extra und es tut seine Wirkung. Dass es hier Bhang gibt war auch eine Überraschung für uns: jetzt trinken wir es fast täglich. Wir haben den Boys erst mal beibringen müssen, wie wir es lieben: sehr stark, ohne Klumpen und andere Zusätze; jetzt schmeckt es fast perfekt und wirkt auch so. Wir haben keine Sehnsucht nach Delhi und zögern unsere Abreise hinaus, zumal sich mein armes Schätzchen jetzt auch eine Erkältung gefangen hat. Es wird täglich kälter und lange werden wir mit unseren Klamotten nicht mehr auskommen (die warmen Sachen haben wir in Dehli gelagert). Besonders die Heimfahrt spät abends auf der Riksha, wenn das Bhang schon wirkt, ist ätzend. Wir verkehren hier überwiegend bei Moslems und ich muss sagen, ihre Tischmanieren sind erheblich angenehmer als die der Hindus, außerdem sind sie viel höflicher und glotzen einen weniger an. Gegen die tumben Inder in Bharatpur sind die Menschen hier recht angenehm, manche mag ich sogar. Hier in Agra könnten wir schon ne Weile leben. Jetzt fällt uns die Abreise besonders schwer, weil wir ja wissen, was uns erst mal erwartet: Delhi, Kalkutta, Dreck und Gestank...

Agra is, of course, home to the Taj Mahal. Agra itself is on my list of World's worst places. Like many cities in India, it looks like just a blip on the map, but you later learn it has a population of millions.

Vehicles and other combustion engines are forbidden in proximity to the Taj. They are trying to keeping it from turning brown.

We hopped in a horse rickshaw to take us the final mile or two.

With the Taj Mahal floating behind us, we posed for a photo.

The Taj is absolutely breathtaking.

It was a little difficult to enjoy due to the unbearable heat and humidity. Allison broke a sweat just from smiling.

Since they don't allow gas engines, they cut the grass by hand.

Then they haul it away by hand.

A close up parting shot.

-A's

Every morning, I wake up around 5am, have my green tea, work out, have breakfast; which is mostly fruit, but I tried a traditional breakfast of masala dosa.  (It is a rice pancake filled with spicy potatoes, dipped in a hot lentil sauce).  Every day, I see the many flocks of parakeets flying around from my hotel window.  This city has more trees than you can imagine!  I do believe that it has the most of any city in the world!  It’s amazing – to be so crowded and dirty and have such greenery.  It is a sight to see…not to mention the monkeys that I mentioned before.  (Note that food safety is not an issue at my hotel, it’s not the norm for the country, so here you can forgo the usual precautions of not eating anything unless you peel it, using a straw, etc..etc..)

My journal to Agra exposed me to the "real India" yesterday....and in the word's of Dorthy from the Wizard of Oz, "Toto, we aren't in Kansas anymore."  There is no way that I can accurately paint the picture of how life is lived here for so many people - it felt surreal as I was taking everything in - it was like being thrust into a National Geography Movie; but I will tell you, nothing that you see on TV or in pictures will compare to seeing it all first hand.  It was literally the pages of "A Fine Balance" by Rohinton Mistry come to life (Bookworms, in  my view not a lot has changed from the account in that book.)

First of all, imagine a 4 lane road, then picture about 10-12 lanes of traffic at all times - but a jumble of:  packed buses (arms out the window), Tata cars (tiny things sometimes packed with 10 people - the driver having a child or two in his lap), auto rickshaws, bike rickshaws, random Brahma bulls or cows, large trucks, herds of goats, people, little deformed kids, large flat carts drawn by mules, motorcycles with 4-5  people on them, camels pulling very large loads, possibly rabid dogs, pigs, monkeys darting here and there (they're fast!), women walking with large loads on their head - could be a large bag of something, a bushel, or a bucket, ... the list goes on.  I can't possibly describe it to the detail it deserves! (Steph - you know what I mean!)

Then to that chaos (it's organized, as I mentioned before - moving, shoving, weaving, darting in and out....) add the sounds (the trucks/cars all have printed on the back "honk please") constant noise, calls to prayer from loud speakers and the smell.  On the side of the road, this was the National Highway that runs the length of the country to Pakistan, (my guide accurately stated that this country lives it's life on the streets), there are people dwelling, working, etc., among mounds and piles of garbage.  Could be rotted food, plastic bottles, excrement...you'll see lean-too structures, huts, tents, buildings, some shopping malls, almost everything amidst the filth.  I saw people sleeping, eating, having a shave, urinating, excreting, just sitting on a mat, shoving for a bit of water in one pipe, bathing under a water truck (water is scare outside monsoon season, not to mention polluted), markets of food (you can't imagine the flies), street sweepers (most construction/road work is done by hand - the sweepers have rudimentary brooms), road construction by hand (saw 3 men paving the road with a little brush and pepples...like a paint brush).  There are guards with rifles at toll stops, government "highway" patrol with barricades that you have to weave through - and they direct traffic (yes, there are some traffic lights), And if you stop....

Stopping the car is uncomfortable...there was one stop that everyone must take, in order to pay a tourist tax.  The advice was to not make eye contact, don't take photos and ignore....so when about 10-20 kids with monkeys, various goods, the snake charmer with his cobra (YES - THAT IS REAL), come and start banging on the doors, trying to open them, shaking the car, monkeys climbing on the car - it takes everything you've got to maintain your composure. The desperation is so very real and very heart breaking, not to mention scary.  Scary, when you're in the car ALONE! 

Honestly, I don't think there is one thing that I DIDN'T see on that drive - (from a leper, to a water buffalo to women walking among the filth in beautiful sarees).  Then when you reach the destination in Agra - the grand Taj Mahal, tomb built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan for his favorite (2nd wife, I think) who died giving birth to their 14th child, you are completely and utterly speechless.  Amidst the poverty, is this majestic and magnificent work of art!  The Taj Mahal is one of the grandest structures of beauty that I have seen (I've seen a few of the wonders of the world)....but the beauty of this is again indescribable.

The security was very high there, a little heightened, I think, with the recent bombings across the country, so I was limited in what I could bring in with me.  When you reach the Taj, you must remove your shoes or wear "booties" to tour the building.  It is really so very amazing - so amazing that my photos don't even look real.  (The trick is to hire one of the many photographers, with privilege, to take your photos, as they can move the crowds).  It was very crowded when I went, at the heat of the day, (so very hot) and not one foreigner in sight, but myself. (See Bikram yoga story below.)  This monument is such a great pride for this country of poverty, it is maintained immaculately!

As you can tell, this was an amazing adventure for me (or for anyone!) - it was quite a long day of total immersion - 5 hour drive one way (and the traffic was as I described the entire route) on a Sat.  People here don't have a Saturday holiday...poverty doesn't have a day off.  Sunday is a religious holiday, however.

Today I will travel to a completely different portion of India ("Little Lhasa") and will experience the Tibetan side of the country while I begin my yoga training.  So, the adventure continues and what an adventure it is......

God Bless!

Bikram Story at the Taj:

I do not know if this is true - but I didn't mention I practiced Bikram Yoga until after I was told the story by my guide at the Taj Mahal.  As most of you know, I just HAD to get a yoga posture in front of the Taj Mahal - little did I know that this is/can be considered a criminal offense leading to arrest and removal from the monument.  (It was just a little standing-head-to-knee!)  When I was taking photos, I just quickly said - "wait, take these" and I noticed my guide had this look on his face and he said, "quick, quick!"....then after he tells me the story.

Apparently, Bikram was at the Taj Mahal a couple of years ago (it's recent) and had a group of about 20-30 people with him on the monument.  They proceded to strip down into their hot yoga gear (that's not what my guide called it - he said underpants) and practice hot yoga (my guide called it a "demonstration".)  (Note that this culture is VERY offended by the showing of skin - it was in the 100's today, and I wore a long sleeve tunic and jeans, which is what everyone wore).  They drew such a large crowd that it caused a small riot - almost, the Indian people were highly offended and found it all very, very disrespectful....so Bikram was arrested and spent the greater part of the day in jail.

This is all according to my guide, I am not sure if it's really true, but now because of that, you can be arrested for doing a yoga pose, carrying a flag - anything that is considered disrespectful to India.  So, there you have it - I have my "standing-head-to-knee" posture photo with a story (I'll have to scan it, when I get home in November)...but that one will get framed. LOL!